This page will give you a little insight in how I build slot cars. For me, it is a continuous trial and error effort in experimentation. I am gradually bettering my skills since I have been out of the hobby for some years. I am always trying to find better, easier ways of building cars that will work well on my track. Notice I said my track. At the present time, it is the only track in my area for me to use. Therefore, my designs, methods, and techniques may not work for everyone. Having said that, maybe the following might help some of you or you can suggest how I can do it better.
 
1. This chassis has sort of evolved from some of my earlier chassis on my "Projects" page. It is easy and cheap to build and works pretty well in both hardbody and lexan. It is designed for a 3 1/2" wheelbase but can be altered to fit anything from 1/32 to 1/24. I start out with a piece of .032 x 2" x 12" brass sheet from the hobby store. With a Dremel, cut a piece 2" x 3 1/2" long.
2. I make a template in Turbocad and spray-glue it to the brass. However, you can do just as good by measuring and drawing layout lines with a Sharpie.
3. Using a Dremel or saw, cut along the layout lines and drill the hole for the flag post. The two notces in the motor well are for the piano wire on the motor bracket. I use 1/32" wire which has pretty good flexibility. Smaller the wire; the more flexible the chassis. Size your notches to fit the wire you use.

 
4. Making the motor bracket is the hardest part of the chassis, but it is still easy. You can use any thickness of brass because it will be braced with the wire. I use a 1/2" wide strip of brass and bend it over the edge of a 5/8" board to make the "U" shape. You can use a hammer to tap it into sharp bends. Measure both ends of the "U" to 3/4" and cut them to size. Stand the bracket up on its bottom on a flat surface with the motor of choice (Cheetah) beside it to mark the height of the motor shaft. Use the same method to mark the axle location so they will be in alignment. Put the bracket back over the edge of wood and using a center punch and hammer, tap a dimple in the brass for the motor shaft and one side for the axle. While still on the board, drill the 1/4" hole for the motor shaft. Then with a drill press or square and hand drill, drill the axle hole through the dimple, through the board, and through the other side. This may take a little practice, but you will get the hang of it. The axle hole should be big enough for a piece of 1/8" ID brass tubing to fit through.
5. Cut a piece of 1/8" ID brass tubing about 1" long and push it through the axle holes you just drilled. Check it for square with the bracket. You can tweek it a bit by enlarging the holes slightly. When square and lined up with the motor shaft hole, solder it to each side of the bracket.
6. Using a pliers, bend the piano wire into a "U" shape to fit snugly around the motor bracket. The closed end should extend 3/8" past the rear of the bracket and the two ends should extend 1 3/8" forward of the bracket. On a flat soldering surface, position the wire around the bracket and flush with the bottom and solder together. With the wire soldered in place, you can trim the axle tubing close to the bracket on both sides.
7. On a flat soldering surface, fit the piano wire ends into the slots you cut in the brass pan. Trim and adjust so the bracket is square with the frame. Solder the wire ends in the slots. Keep the solder to a minimum so the rear suspension will flex. More solder; less flex.
8. We're almost done! Mount the rear tires of your choice on an axle (I use 1/8" piano wire cause I'm cheap) and make sure they turn freely in the rear axle bushings. Put the flag assembly, complete with braid, on the chassis. Put the chassis on a setup block to get the height of the front axle. I make the front axle bracket from 1/2" wide brass bent with pliers or a vise. I drill holes in both sides large enough for brass tubing to go through. The front end setup will depend on the diameter of your tires and the axle. While on the setup block, I shim the front tires with pieces of brass under each one so they do not touch the track. Once the axle height is determined, solder the bracket to the pan at the desired wheelbase length.
9. The only thing left to do is mount the side pans to the main pan to fit the width of you body. I do this by soldering tubing across the chassis for pin-mounting the lexan body. For hardbodies, I make the pans