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This is a How-to done by Brad Gnyp on connecting Carrera track to wood (MDF). This process can be done with any plastic track and would really cut down the cost involved in creating a large 4 lane layout. The article is exactly as seen on the online forums and I may get some updated pictures to better describe the process.
 
A few weeks back I said I would try to find my pictures of the MDF-plastic track sections I had built. My track gets set up and taken down with some regularity due to renovations, guests etc. so I decided to modularize some sections to speed up the process and lessen the chances of bad contacts or breakage. One of the things I did was create some routed straights to save money, free up plastic straights and save the time needed to put four lanes, clips and such together. They are relatively robust, stack against the wall when not in use and give me much longer straights when the room is available. At six feet in length, they each provide the equivalent of twelve plastic sections, which is about $100 CDN to buy. Two sections replaces $200 of plastic track.

I used for each section:
2 sections of Carrera track per straight $18.00 CDN
3 feet of 1/8 inch brass rod $ 3.00 CDN
50 feet of copper tape $2.00 CDN
half a sheet of 3/8 MDF cut to fit Carrera track $9.00 CDN
Tube of steel filled epoxy $ 4.00 CDN
2 feet of 16 gauge wire $0.50 CDN
4" X 4" sheet of .030 brass sheet cut to strips $0.50 CDN
2 feet of solder
Total cost is $ 37.00 CDN

I removed the Carrera rails from the track sections, using a square and a razor saw, cut the plastic sections in half. A Dremel cut off wheel helped to cut the steel rails in half and smooth and polish the cut ends.

The MDF was cut to the same width as the Carrera track and the slots routed 1/8 wide, with the same spacing as the Carrera slots. Make sure your depth is the same or greater than the plastic track you are mating to. Router out 1/4 in wide slots about 2 inches from the end of each track slot, perpendicular to the track slot. Each of these "T's" will be used to solder connector wires from the copper tape to the plastic track steel sections.
Calculate the EXACT length of the track sections you are trying to replace and ensure the final length of your plastic - MDF track section is the same. A mistake here will give you grief if you are using a track planner to design layouts! Slots to fit the connecting wiring were routed underneath the track surface, at the ends. This is to give a "flush fit" when the track section is laid on the floor or table.

2 inch pieces of brass rod were cut to tie the plastic and MDF sections together; epoxy is just not strong enough for a portable piece of track. Drill 1/8 inch holes in the MDF track end and epoxy the brass rod sections 1" deep in the holes.
Use a large, flat file to smooth the ends of the cut plastic track. A little care here will ensure a flush fit when the wood and plastic are butted together.

Copper tape the slots on the MDF sections and ensure you wrap enough tape over the end to prevent peeling. Place plastic and MDF sections on a flat, clean surface, with the driving surface down. Wax paper under the wood- plastic joint prevents any sticking. Make sure the driving surface of both sections are even and smooth. Sloppy work here gives you a bump on both ends. Clamp all the sections down and lightly sand plastic track near the brass rod ends (helps to give epoxy something to grab).
Apply steel filled epoxy around and over the brass rods until a strong, even surface is created. Let set for 24 hours.

Cut wire pieces long enough to reach from the "T" slots to the plastic track. Cut brass strips 3/16" wide by 2" long to solder to wire pieces. Bend brass strips over to form friction fit pieces to slide in steel rails.
Fit the cut steel rails back into plastic track and ensure metal tabs are spread to keep the rails in place in the plastic track.

Drill holes through track on either end of the routed "T's". This is where the wire will go through to solder on to the copper tape. Bend and flatten the wire end so that it sits flat on the recessed copper tape. Solder the wire to the tape. A piece of plastic in the car slot will ensure you do not spill the solder in the car slot and create an obstruction for the guide to catch on.

Slide the bent brass strip end into the steel rails and push the wire into the routed area to make a flush bottom surface.
[edit] The Steel epoxy is conductive so be careful not to let it touch the copper strips.
Good luck,

Brad Gnyp aka GenXRacer